Service Call Checklist

Issues with the condensate drain can be very common, particularly if it runs under the floor. Algae build-up can block the flow. Algae can be cleared by vacuuming out the drain line with a wet/dry shop vacuum. If your system is equipped with a removable float switch, pour a cup of algaecide in the access point two times per month. Be sure that the algaecide goes down the drain and doesn’t back up into the AC unit. If the problem occurs again, bring us in to help.

If your AC or heating system isn’t operating properly, the problem could be a dirty or clogged air filter. You should check and replace them regularly. High-efficiency filters with dimensions that are too small can lead to air-flow problems. If that’s the case, use a less efficient filter. When you get your electric bill, check your filters. Change or clean them if they show signs of dirt and/or dust. If you wait another month before checking your filter, it will be twice as dirty. If you have pets, carpet, or live in a particularly dirty or dusty area, you may want to opt for more aggressive filtration and air quality measures.

Circuit breakers and switches can be turned off accidentally when working in the electric panel. This is easy to miss, too. Even a simple power interruption can trip a breaker. Before booking one of our technicians, check your circuit breakers first. A circuit breaker may be in the garage, hallway, storage room, or utility closet. When checking it, push the circuit breaker switch hard to the off position before turning it back on. If it feels spongy or won’t go to the on position, schedule service. Vents are an important part of any cooling and heating system. Check vents, ducts, and grills for blockages that may be causing airflow issues. To avoid blocking the airflow, don’t store anything in front of the vents.

Before purchasing a new thermostat, consider the following: Is your thermostat set to the proper mode (Heat, Cool, or Auto)? Is the fan switch set to Auto? Is the fan set for continuous operation? Is the temperature setting what you want it to be? If it’s a programmable thermostat, is it off? In a setback scheduled period? A thermostat purchased in a retail store isn’t the same as a professional model. You could wind up buying the wrong thermostat and burning out transformers or blowing fuses! Retail versions have a lesser warranty and they don’t feature professional advice specific to your system like you’ll get from one of our experienced technicians. Dead thermostat batteries can be overlooked very easily. Typically, thermostats are powered by the HVAC system transformer. Battery backup is in place in case of a power outage. However, some thermostats operate on batteries. If no numbers show on the thermostat screen, change the batteries. If your thermostat is battery-powered, ask our technician to install a power wire between the thermostat and the AC system.

Airflow to the outside unit is critical. This is where heat exchange occurs. Debris like leaves and branches can be sucked onto the coil surface and suffocate the unit. Clean the unit by removing large debris by hand and using a garden hose to rinse the coil. Do this with the power shut off. Maintain a three-foot minimum radius free of debris around the unit for good airflow. This can eliminate operational problems, too. Keep shrubs trimmed back. Don’t put in a fence or wall too close to the unit. Check for frost or ice. Check the indoor and outdoor units for ice or frost. This may appear where the pipes enter the unit. Systems working properly won’t be iced or frosted. Turn the unit off at the thermostat, but turn the fan switch on to thaw out the system. It might take two to four hours. DO NOT continue to run your system if freezing continues. The ice can damage the coil and cause leaks. Once thawed out and turned back on, with no air restrictions, it will continue cooling. If it continues to freeze, call us for professional help.